Start with the boat on an even keel in both axes, standing on its two bilge keels on the ground or on a trailer. Chock the rudder post and the bows so it can't rock fore and aft, or strap the boat down to the ground.
Locate the two wooden spars which make up the crutch to support the top of the mast once it is horizontal. These can be lashed to the pushpit inside the cockpit so that the lower ends are in the corners of the cockpit. 
If you want the mast to be offset to the boat axis, move the central bolt and washers to the alternate hole you will find in one of the spars.
Remove the split pins from all the bottle screws (6 near mast + Backstay, nothing to remove on Forestay). Unplug the electrical through-deck connections and tape over the ends.
Remove boom and mainsail. Remove jib from forestay foil. After lowering, tie halyard forward end to pulpit and make off the mast end temporarily onto a cleat on the mast. Remove the furling line from the rotostay.
Using a suitable pair of spanners, make sure the mast foot pivot bolt unscrews OK on demand, leaving it still done up.
Identify the "Stabilizer Boom" - the one with aluminium brackets at the end, marked with port and starboard at the ends. Position this boom athwartships centrally immediately in front of the mast. There is a sheet of PTFE plastic around the boom in the middle, to encourage the boom to rotate smoothly as the operation proceeds.
Leaving the lower halves of the turnbuckles attached to the boat, Slacken off and disconnect the Cap Shrouds, loosely replacing the turnbuckle top half on the threaded end of each shroud.
Use lengths of baler twine (in the box) to tightly lash the stabilizer boom down to the cap-shroud chainplates on each side.
Rotate the boom so that the aluminium brackets point upwards. The threaded end of the cap shrouds can now be passed through the angled holes in the boom, and retained in place with the central part of the bottle screws. Do these up evenly but not tightly at this stage.
Using two lengths of approx 6mm rope, tie bowlines in one end of each line, put the bowlines around the outboard ends of the stabilizer boom so the boom can rotate within the bowlines, and tie the ends of the lines to the pulpit base, thereby preventing the stabilizer boom swivelling in the horizontal plane.
Identify the Jigger-Boom and the fabricated steel parts which fit over each end of it. Note that the rubber-snubber goes on the lower end, while the fitting with 4 loops goes at the top. This part has two side rings which are circular and two fore and aft rings which are elongated. There is a thin black strop with small clips that can be used to hold the end-fittings to the boom. Join these together so you can handle the boom as one piece.
In the box are two lines with loops tied half-way down them. These are the stabilizer lines that hold the jigger-boom top end on the centre line of the boat. Tie the shorter end of each line onto the side rings of the jigger-boom top. Pass the other end through the shackle at the outboard ends of the jigger boom and tie it back to the rope loop to give a 2-part purchase on each side so to make these lines adjustable for tension.
Detach the mainsheet assembly from the boom, noting the quick-release fitting at each end beyond the turning blocks. Take it to the foredeck and attach the "cockpit end" fitting to the aft-most position on the bow-fitting.
Position the jigger boom horizontally on the foredeck so that the rubber snubber bears on the front face of the mast immediately above the stabilizer-boom.
Locate the end of the jib halyard which you attached to the pulpit, untie it, and tie it to the top-fitting of the jigger-boom. The jib halyard should now be adjusted so that the forward end of the jigger-boom is about 30-40cm above the deck. Make off the other end securely on a strong cleat on the mast.
Attach the "boom end" clip fitting on the mainsheet to the lower metal loop on the top fitting on the jigger-boom, leaving about 40cm of 4x sheet separating the blocks. Cleat the mainsheet in the jammer.
Slacken off and detach the steel back-stay from the boat, but leave a light rope strop tied from the backstay to the pushpit, so you can still control the fore and aft movement of the mast.
It may be considered safer/easier to transfer this function to the main halyard, by connecting the end of it usually attached to the sail to the pushpit instead, and controlling it via the rope clutch as usual.
Slacken off and detach the forward lower shrouds. The mast is now being held up only by the forestay and aft lower shrouds, which are stabilizing it on the centreline and fore-and-aft.
Now it is time to transfer the job of stabilizing the mast vertically to the cap-shrouds. Do this by tightening up the stabilizer lines and also the bottle screws under the stabilizer boom.
Have a second person take charge of the line (or main halyard) which is keeping the mast under control, and then slacken off and detach the lower aft shrouds. This should allow the mast to rock forward enough to slacken the clevis-pin attaching the rotostay to the bow plate fitting. If it does not go slack, pull the mainsheet in to tilt it forwards until you can undo the clevis pin, not forgetting to cleat the sheet again once this is achieved.
Now you can pay out the mainsheet on the foredeck, and take in the main halyard gradually so that the mast begins to tilt aft. As it does so, the jigger boom will rise in compression and the cap shrouds will tighten initially as the mast foot rotates upwards on the hinge bolt. Slacken off the turnbuckles under the stabilizer boom if the shrouds go unduly tight. Once past this initial 10 degrees or so of mast rake, the shrouds will go loose again and the turnbuckles will then need tightening.
As the rotation of the mast continues, the effect of the cap-shroud stabilization will diminish. The stabilization given by the jigger-boom will increase, and a person standing in the cockpit can manually "steer" the mast by pulling one or other of the cap-shrouds. The tension in the lengthening main-sheet will increase as the mast continues to rotate but should not become difficult to control. Eventually the mast can be steered into the crutch and you can congratulate yourself on saving the cost of a mast-lift.
Once the mast is in the crutch, the mainsheet can be detached from the jigger-boom and forestay fitting, the jigger-boom and its fittings can be lowered, and all lines and the cap-shrouds can be removed from the stabilizer boom.
Identify the broad wooden plank with blue rope loops tied through it at intervals. This is intended to support the lower part of the reefing system and head-foil, since this projects beyond the foot of the mast. Tie the loops around the foil so that it rests on top of the plank on top of the lowered mast.
Undo the mast foot pivot nut and bolt and remove it, noting which hole in the casting it went through.
There is a short length of split hose clipped around the pulpit rail. This can now be moved to the horizontal rail between the cheeks of the pulpit to pad this point which will support the heavy end of the mast and gear. A tall strong man in the cockpit can now lift the rear of the mast in the crutch, while a man on the foredeck can move the whole mast and gear forwards until it rests on the bar across the pulpit cheeks.